Jack O’Neill’s house, Pleasure Point, Santa Cruz

good day - Even a bad day of surfing is better than a good day in Disneyland…

Hey cheer up Kelly!

mr Dora

surfsurf — dufarge

Asbury Park Police Gazette - 1888

August 1969, Daily Telegraph magazine. - Possibly the first cover story on modern surfing by Brittain’s mainstream press.

Stand up/sit down.

Footed nose job - C.J. Nelson one footed nose job in New Zealand by Thomas Campbell

hmm… probably not.

impressive!

cry me a river

Rad.